IMPORTANT! IMPORTANT!

Our insurers will not consider any claim for damage unless the delivery note is marked stating that the goods are damaged. In general, carriers will not wait and allow time for packages to be opened and goods inspected; but will (must) allow external inspection of the packaging before you sign for receipt.

THEREFORE, IMMEDIATELY ON RECEIPT OF THE GOODS FROM THE CARRIER

1. ENSURE THAT YOU EXAMINE FULLY THE PACKAGING

2. IF THERE IS ANY EVIDENCE WHATESOEVER THAT DAMAGE MAY HAVE OCCURRED, SIGN ON THE DELIVERY NOTE THAT THE GOODS WERE RECEIVED DAMAGED.

3. IMMEDIATELY AFTER RECEIPT, YOU MUST UNPACK AND EXAMINE THE CONTENTS OF THE PACKAGE(S) FOR DAMAGE AND COMPLETENESS.

(Note: even where packaging shows signs of damage, it is common for there to be no actual damage to the products)

4. IN THE EVENT ANY ITEM IS DAMAGED OR THE CONSIGNMENT IS INCOMPLETE, REPORT THE DETAILS OF THIS TO US IMMEDIATELY.

Installing Your Gates

These instructions attempt to cover many of the factors involved in fitting our gates, posts and hardware, but are unable to cover every eventuality. If in doubt please contact us so that we can do our best to advise you.

Phone + 44 (0)1952 287250 Fax +44 (0)1952 287252

Email info@ecogate.co.uk

We ask you to read the instructions through completely before commencing the installation of your gate.

Safety – Whilst fitting our gates it is common to use power tools, such as an electric drill. Follow all safety instructions as advised by the tool manufacturers to ensure your safety.

Lifting – Always obtain assistance when lifting any object that you perceive may be too heavy for you to lift on your own.

Cutting / sawing a gate – Your gate is designed and manufactured for the intended gap, or to the size requested, with allowance for a small amount of free play. Where you have a Devon or Shropshire style gate you must not cut, plane, or saw them. Chiltern (Frame and Panel) gates can be trimmed a small amount, but please check with us before removing more than a small amount of material.

1) THE FITTING PROCESS

Before commencing fitting some people find it helpful to lay the gate and posts out on the ground to get a feel for where the gates, posts and hinges will lay in relation to each other once fitted.

The general process is to fix the post(s) first, then carefully lift the gate into the opening.

The gate is then lined up in the opening to give your required gap under the gate and an even gap of 3mm to 5mm on either side of the gate, using pairs of wedges underneath the gate and to both sides to achieve the required spacing.

The gates expand slightly with temperature and consequently smaller gaps are required when fitting in the summer and a larger gap in the winter. For further guidance please call our technical department.

When lifting and supporting the gate always ensure you lift carefully to protect your back. Obtain help whenever in doubt. When fitting double gates it will usually be essential to obtain some assistance.

When the gap around the gate is even up and the gate is securely wedged and supported in position, then the hinges are offered up and their chosen positions marked and the hinges fixed.

Packing pieces

As our gates cannot be made to every single possible width measurement due to their construction and the particular materials used, where we have been notified of all the relevant measurements, we make provision to ensure a good fit by cutting down one or both of the ECOGATE plastic posts, or by including additional spacers/packing pieces to make up the gap.

Additionally, the gate opening will often also be out of true such that packing pieces need to be used on both sides to square up the opening and ensure a smart neat fit for the ECOGATE posts and gates.

2) FIXING ECOGATE PLASTIC POSTS

We find that fitting the post first and accurately is the key to the success of the installation process.

Where ECOGATE plastic posts are used, they must first be firmly bolted to a wall, brick pillar, or other substantial support, using the supplied frame fixing screws or other similar substantial screw fixings.

When the rebates are cut in plastic posts, the posts often bend; during the installation, it is necessary to fix them so that they become straight when fitted.

How many fixings should I use?

On the hinge post we usually find it is sufficient to fix two fairly close to either side of the upper hinge: one a few inches up from the bottom of the post and two more equally spaced up the post. Where a gate is particularly large/heavy we would, where possible, use an additional fixing a few inches above the top hinge.

The condition of your wall, your previous experiences, or preference for a different type of fixing may suggest slightly different ways of fixing the post to the wall.

Our suggested procedure is as follows:

a) Offer up the first gatepost (hinge side) to the required position on the wall or pillar. It may be necessary to trim a little from one end of the post to get it to fit. We cut the posts slightly over the required size to allow you to get a closer fit when fitting. Use a tenon saw or similar to remove the excess. Burrs can be removed with a deburring tool, rasp or plane.

b) Once the post is cut to size offer it up again to the required position. By reference to the gate, consider where the hinges will be fixed as you don’t want the ‘post to wall’ fixings to interfere with the fixings for the hinges to the post. Consider also where any mortar joints are, as it is best to avoid them and fix directly into the brick or stone work for maximum strength.

c) Using a pencil, mark on the post where you are going to drill the holes for the fixings.

· On a standard rebated post we suggest you mark the centre line of the rebate.

· On a square post we suggest you mark the centre line of the post.

d) Drill the post in accordance with the diameter of the fixings you are using; take care to ensure the holes are drilled squarely through the post. Use a countersink to chamfer the outer lip of the hole drilled into the post. If using the frame fixings that we supply, make sure the plastic sleeve will be a snug fit in the hole through the post.

NOTE: the plastic sleeves of our frame fixings are designed to fit inside the posts, in the holes drilled through the post, as well as penetrating beyond the post into the wall or pillar to which the post is being attached.

e) Once the holes in the post are drilled, line the post back up to the wall.

f) Check the vertical alignment of the post and wall with a spirit level. If not vertical, mark on the post where packing pieces are required and record also the width of packing needed between the post and the wall to make the post vertical.

g) Prepare the necessary packing pieces and drill them to suit the holes in the post.

h) With the post and any necessary packing in place, mark on the wall the position for the top fixing using the hole already drilled in the post. Remove the post (and packing, if any) and drill the wall to the correct depth, for the fixings used, taking care to ensure that the hole is drilled horizontally.

i) Offer the post back up and insert the plastic sleeve through the post into the wall. To ensure better location, gently tap the screw till the fixing becomes firm; do not hammer all the way in. On occasions it may be necessary to remove the fixing and the post, which is easier if the fixing has not been forced fully home.

j) Next, check the post is pressed firmly against the wall; use the spirit level to check the post is vertical both in the line of the wall and the line of the gate; then mark the other positions on the wall for drilling.

k) Swing the post out of the way (still held by the top fixing) and drill the remaining holes in the wall.

l) Once all the post fixing holes are drilled, swing the post back into place and insert the plastic fixing sleeves. Now gently hammer in the fixing screws to within about 6mm of ‘fully home’. Now using the correct sized screwdriver, screw the fixing screws all the way in.

m) Once the first post is up, the other post will follow the same method, if it is a post for the second pair of double gates. If the post is for the latching side of a single gate we normally find that four fixings are sufficient. Fit the first one a 20mm from the top of the post, the 20mm from the bottom and the last two spread equally between the top and bottom fixings.

3) HANGING THE GATE

Always make sure you have sufficient help to lift and position the gate, and also to support the gate once in position while you fix the hinges.

Take great care at all times to ensure the gate cannot fall on to you.

The following guidance applies where ECOGATE posts have been fitted; if existing or alternatively supplied posts are being used, the process basically will be the same.

1. This process is important to the final success of the project: Carefully lift your ECOGATE into the opening between the posts and, using wedges underneath the gate and to both sides, line up the gate to give the required gap under the gate and to even up the free play on either side of the gate. Make sure you have allowed a sufficient gap under the gate to clear obstructions such as rising levels, uneven surfaces, and for ground swell resulting from frost.

2. Having carefully wedged and propped your ECOGATE in situ, offer up the hinges (Strap Hinge or T-Hinges) to the gate and post. The hinge fixing holes can then be used to mark the gate where the hinges and hinge pins are going to fit. It is essential that when marking the upper hinge hole positions on the gate, the hinge is pulled outwards to take out the slack around the pin; similarly, the lower hinge should be pushed inwards when marking the lower hinge hole positions; this will replicate the situation that will apply when the gate is actually being held in place by the hinges, rather than being supported by the wedges you have placed to hold the gate during fixing.

3. Fix the Hinge pins or T-Hinges to the posts. There is no need to drill pilot holes. The screws we supply are sufficiently sharp to enable the screw to be driven home with a firm push from a well fitting screwdriver. Do not over tighten.

4. Once the hinge pins or T-Hinges have been fitted to the post, then the main body of the strap hinge or the ‘tongue’ of the T-Hinge can be fixed to the horizontal ledges or frame planks on the back of the gate. Again there is no need to drill. Just a firm start with a well fitting screwdriver will drive the screws home.

5. Finally, with strap hinges, you need to fit the bolt through the gate and the hinge. Drill a hole the same size as the shank of the bolt and insert the bolt from the front of the gate (except on rare occasions where the hinges are fitted to the front of the gate rather than the rear). Fit the nut to the rear of the gate and using a spanner gradually tighten it up until it is a good snug fit. The square section of the shank of coach bolt will be drawn neatly into the front face of the gate. Then remove the nut, fit the washer, retighten. There is no need or benefit to over tightening the nut. A good firm pressure is all that is required.

6. Finally remove the wedges and other aids to erecting the gate and it should swing freely and easily.

7. When fitting is complete, many people like to use a silicon gun to finish the joint between post and wall/pillar.

4) GATE HARDWARE / FURNITURE

Once your gate is swinging, you can then fit the gate furniture of your choice to the gate.

Ring Latch

These are normally fitted to the horizontal ledge or frame plank that is roughly in the middle of your gate.

1. The main body of the latch is usually fitted on the rear face of the gate, the same side as the hinges. Offer up the latch ring and arm and check carefully before marking it that the position selected ensures:

· the latch arm and ring will clear walls, fence posts etc when opening and closing the gate

· the latch arm is sufficiently extended to actually latch on the latch hook, which you will fit to the post.

2. When certain that the selected position is satisfactory, mark and drill the hole for the bar that connects the front and rear of the latch.

3. Attach the latch unit with arm and ring to the rear of the gate using the screws supplied, employing a firm push on the correct size and type of screwdriver. Do not over-tighten.

4. Offer up the front latch section and determine if any material needs to be cut from the bar that extends through the gate, connecting the front and rear handles. Mark the bar to reduce the length sufficient only to allow the front handle to be screwed down onto the face of the gate (the bar will still stand proud of the face of the gate by several millimetres).

5. Remove the bar from the gate and to cut it to length using a hacksaw or an angle grinder. Make sure you do this safely, holding the bar in a vice, and wear eye/face and hand protection.

6. Replace the bar and place the front face latch ring section over the end of the bar protruding through the gate (usually the latch ring is lined up to be horizontal when the latch is closed) and screw the ring latch handle to the gate using the screws supplied, employing a firm push on the correct size and type of screwdriver. Again, do not over-tighten.

Gate Bolt

Most customers fit the gate bolt to the top or bottom ledge or frame plank at the back of the gate.

1. Place the bolt and catch hoop as a unit onto the back of the gate and check the positioning: ideally, the bolt when retracted will not extend beyond the edge of the gate, and the catch hoop into which the extended bolt fits will have a clear gap between it and the edge of the fence post to ensure a solid holding for the screws.

2. When a suitable position has been established, mark the position of the screw holes on both the gate and post.

3. Attach the catch hoop to the post first using the screws supplied, employing a firm push on the correct size and type of screwdriver. Again, do not over-tighten.

4. Check the positioning of the bolt and then attach it using the screws supplied, employing a firm push on the correct size and type of screwdriver. Again, do not over-tighten.

Foot Tread Bolt or Surface Bolt

When building the gate if we are aware that you wish to fit one of theses bolts to the gate or indeed if you ask us to supply these fittings, we will fit an additional pad to the base of the gate to make fitting them straightforward.

The process is similar to fitting a gate bolt:

1. When fitting the Foot Tread Bolt or Surface Bolt offer the unit up to the gate and check the action of the bolt to ensure it reaches the ground/catch plate sufficiently to ensure secure positioning of the gate.

2. Mark the position of the unit that ensures good contact with the ground.

3. Attach the unit to the gate using the screws supplied, employing a firm push on the correct size and type of screwdriver. Again, do not over-tighten.

Mortice and Rim Locks

Mortice and Rim both allow gates to be secured by the use of a key, the main difference being that mortice locks. Both types come in many sizes and fitting them is not always straightforward; there are measurements to be taken that need to be accurate if the result is to be satisfactory. Most manufacturers supply instructions for their particular locks.

The easiest way to fit a key driven lock to an ECOGATE is to use a rim lock, which has a similar action to a mortice lock, but can be attached to the rear of the gate on one of the ledges or braces.

With a Rim Lock, line up both parts of the unit on the gate and mark where the fixings should go. Remember to allow a little clearance between the two parts. Again, there is no need to drill the gates, just attach using a firm grip and drive the screws in.

In general, follow the instructions received with the lock; but always bear in mind the above information.

And, if in doubt ask!

It is impossible to anticipate and cover the whole range of conditions and situations that you may meet when fitting your gates. If you have read and re-read the instructions, then sized the task up and are still no clearer, please do contact us – see the contact information on page 1.

We cannot guarantee to be able to help but will do our best. On occasions, diagrams or photographs can help us to understand the problem. They can be sent to us over the Web (as email attachments, for example) or through the post.

5) MAINTENANCE & CLEANING

Your gate

The gate itself, of course, requires no maintenance; but from time to time its looks may benefit from a clean.

The gate will normally clean up as new with just a wipe down with a damp cloth. If the gate has become particularly dirty, then the use of a sponge and cleaning solution such as FlashTM, or CifTM and some warm water will usually do the job with little effort on your part.

The gate hardware

A little maintenance every now and again on the gate hardware will ensure the gate works well, the hardware continues to look good and has the longest possible life.

On the bearing surfaces of the hinge and the metal to metal surface of the ring latch, an occasional light oiling will help to prolong the life and to ease the opening and closing of the gate.

Where mortice locks are fitted these should be oiled occasionally to ensure a trouble free life. As these are mechanical items, they can be prone to sticking if not lubricated.

ENJOY YOUR PURCHASE; THANK YOU FOR BUYING ECOGATE.